Sewing thread is the main line material used to sew a variety of clothing materials, both practical and decorative dual functions. The quality of the sewing thread not only affects the sewing efficiency, but also affects the appearance quality and processing cost of the sewn garments and products.
1, sewing thread classification and characteristics
The most common classification method for sewing threads is the raw material classification method, which includes natural fiber sewing threads, synthetic fiber sewing threads and hybrid sewing threads.
(1) Natural fiber sewing thread
a、Cotton sewing thread: sewing thread made of cotton fiber as the raw material by refining, bleaching, sizing and waxing. High strength, good heat resistance, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressing, the disadvantage is poor elasticity and wear resistance. It can be divided into no light (or cord), filament light and wax light. Cotton sutures are mainly used for sewing cotton fabrics, leather and high-temperature ironing clothing.
b. Silk thread: The filament yarn or silk thread made of natural silk has excellent gloss, and its strength, elasticity and wear resistance are better than cotton thread. It is suitable for sewing all kinds of silk garments, high-grade woolen garments, and furs. With leather clothing and so on. China's ancient silk embroidered thread used to embroider fine embroidery.
(2) Synthetic fiber sewing thread
a. Polyester sewing thread: It is the main sewing thread at present, made of polyester filament or short fiber as raw material. It is characterized by high strength, good elasticity, wear resistance, low shrinkage, and good chemical stability. It is mainly used for sewing jeans, sportswear, leather products, woolen materials and military uniforms. It should be noted here that the polyester suture has a low melting point and is easily melted during high-speed sewing, blocking the eye of the needle and causing the suture to break. Therefore, it is not suitable for clothing that is over-stood at a high speed.
b. Nylon sewing thread: Nylon sewing thread is made of pure nylon multi-filament, divided into three types: long thread, short fiber thread and elastic deformation line. At present, the main varieties are nylon filament thread. Its advantages are high strength and elongation, good elasticity, and its fracture length is more than three times that of the same specification cotton thread, so it is suitable for sew chemical fiber, woolen cloth, leather and elastic clothing. The greater advantage of nylon sewing thread lies in the development of transparent sewing thread. As this thread is transparent and color is better, the difficulty of sewing wiring is reduced and solved. The development prospect is broad, but the rigidity of the transparent thread in the current market is too high. Large, low strength, easy to float on the surface of the fabric traces, coupled with its high temperature, the sewing speed can not be too high, is mainly used for decals, hemline sewing, but not for the seam.
c. Vinylon sewing thread: Made of vinylon fiber, it has high strength and stable stitching. It is mainly used for sewing thick canvas, furniture fabrics, labor insurance products and so on.
d. Acrylic sewing thread: Made of acrylic fiber, it is mainly used as decorative thread and embroidery thread. It has low yarn twist and bright dyeing.
(3) Hybrid sewing thread
a, polyester/cotton sewing thread: 65% polyester and 35% cotton blended. Both the advantages of both polyester and cotton, can not only ensure the strength, wear resistance, shrinkage rate requirements, but also overcome the defect of polyester not heat, to adapt to high-speed sewing. Applicable to all kinds of cotton, polyester / cotton and other clothing.
b. Core-sewing thread: Sewing thread made of natural fiber with a filament as the core thread. Its strength depends on the core, and wear and heat resistance depends on the outer yarn. Therefore, the core-sewing sewing thread is suitable for high-speed sewing and garments requiring high seam strength.
In addition, the sewing thread can be divided into coils, bobbins, spools, clews, and bobbins according to the package type. The sewing thread can be divided into sewing thread, embroidery thread, industrial thread, etc., which will not be described in detail here.
2, sewing thread quality and application
The comprehensive indicator for assessing the quality of the sewing thread is seamability. Sewn-ability refers to the ability of the sewing thread to be sewn and formed into a good stitch under specified conditions, and to maintain certain mechanical properties in the thread. The advantages and disadvantages of seamability will have a direct impact on the production efficiency, sewing quality and wearing performance. According to national standards, the grade of sewing thread is divided into first-class goods, second-class goods and foreign goods. In order to make the sewing thread has the best sewability in the garment processing, and the sewing effect is satisfactory, it is very important to correctly select and apply the sewing thread. The correct application of sewing thread should follow the following principles:
(1) Compatible with the characteristics of the fabric: The sewing thread and the raw material of the fabric are the same or similar, in order to ensure the unity of shrinkage, heat resistance, abrasion resistance, durability, etc., to avoid the difference between the line and the fabric and cause the appearance of wrinkling. Shrink.
(2) Consistent with the type of clothing: For special-purpose garments, special-purpose sewing threads should be considered. For example, stretch-type garments require elastic sewing threads, and fire-fighting suits require heat-resistant, flame-retardant and waterproof-treated sewing threads.
(3) Coordinating with the stitch pattern: The stitches used in different parts of the garment are different, and the sewing thread should also be changed along with it. For example, a bulky thread or a deformed thread is required for overlocking, and a double-threaded stitching should be selected for a highly extensible thread. The quilting, shoulder stitching should be firm, and the eyeliner should be wear-resistant.
(4) Consistent with the quality and price: The quality and price of sewing thread should be consistent with the grade of clothing, sewing thread with high quality and high price for high-grade garments, and sewing thread with medium quality and moderate price for middle and low-grade clothing. In general, the grades of sewing threads, raw materials used, and the fineness of yarns are all shown on the labels of sewing threads, which helps us to reasonably select and use sewing threads. Sewing thread labels usually include four items (in order): Yarn thickness, color, raw materials, processing methods, can be used in the form of "60/2X3 white polyester thread".
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